. Shockingly fresh for its age, this graceful old Tawny has an unctuous texture. Sweet and lively, the acidity delivers all of its interesting flavors to the palate. Eventually laced with classic notes of molasses, caramel and just a bit of Brandy, it is completely delicious. It also, I might add, sheds some early aggression in favor of a more harmonious demeanor over several days. It was hard to choose between this and the 1966 Kopke Colheita (also reviewed). This seemed a bit brighter and crisper, a bit fresher. The 1966 held better over a week, threw off a medley of more complex and concentrated flavors, and showed better mid-palate depth. Very differently styled--a good example of how different vintages can be with Colheitas--they both have their merits. You can't go wrong with either.
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